GALWAY - DAY 1

Mike visited Ireland in March/April this year when Andrew and I were in India in order to pass the time. He visited, amongst other places the battle of Augrim, a battle and period of history that I don't know anything about and it was so exciting that he wanted to take me across to visit it. So the time had come and off we went - he really wanted to take his little MG so we checked the weather which seemed to be mostly dry and set off early on Sunday morning. We had a really clear run to Stranraer and the weather got sunnier and warmer as we approached the coast so that I had to shed clothing when we reached the port, as I was dressed in two coats and a winter hat when we left Brampton.

The crossing was a good one, calm with good views from our seats, having paid a little bit extra for the club lounge.

We were somewhat amazed when we reached Belfast and found that the clouds had descended and it was grey when we arrived in Northern ireland. This was my first time across the Irish Sea but I found Northern Ireland reassuringly familiar as we headed South, taking the smaller roads and glancing anxiously at the clouds as we stubbornly kept the roof down.

Mike was hoping to arrive at the visitors centre at Augrim before it closed at 5pm as he wished to pick up a walking map of the battlefield so we could walk it on the morrow, as the visitors centre was closed on a Monday but as we travelled along these slow roads we realised it would be touch and go. At last we reached the motorway for he final 20 miles and Mike put his foot down in an attempt to make it in time. I decided not to look at the time as it would be what it would be (very Irish of me and completely against my natural inclination) and we arrived just as the lady running the centre was locking the doors. "Are you open?" asked Mike? "Sorry we have just closed" she replied 'Oh," said Mike his face obviously crest fallen "What are you after?" she replied, breaking into a smile "I love your little car, so I do." she added. 'I'm just after a walking map of the battlefield" "Why come on in." she said "I can help you with that, and if you want to have a quick walk around the visitor's centre for 15 minutes or so, I am sure I can oblige." So Mike dashed in whilst I parked the car and followed him in to use the loo. I was starting to get a bit cold and the car's suspension is not that great so I was starting to feel a bit shaken (not stirred!). After 10 minutes we left, armed with the map and a short loo break. We planned to walk the battlefield on Monday and visit the centre on Tuesday on our way  to Dublin. Back to the road to Galway, only an hour to go and we arrived without incident.

The place was packed and as we arrived in the car park three large coaches arrived to book in. "Quick," said Mike "get to reception before they book in." I just made it and got our keys just before the tour operator arrived to check in 90 tourists. Our room was tolerable but clean but the vibe of the hotel was not good. It was far too busy for my liking but we decided to freshen up and then quickly head off into Galway. To be honest I did not really understand where all the people had come from to visit this small town.

I don't know if you have ever visited Southern Ireland in general or Galway in particular. I have neither. Ireland feels very European, the road signs and modern architecture makes you feel you are abroad. Galway was a sprawling town and our hotel was about 20 minutes walk from the centre. It was not the small wee fishing town I was expecting, all picturesque and charming. It was just a town like anywhere else and was packed. Full of tourists and rowdy drunks .... not exactly my thing. I prefer a quieter place. Getting a place to eat was also going to be difficult - everywhere was packed but I managed to find a table outside in a bistro - that also felt very continental with a street full of restaurants and pubs with outside seating areas, as in europe, with awnings to protect you in the rain. It was dry, humid and warm so the insides of the restaurants were hot and we enjoyed sitting outside and people watching as we had a really good meal and watched the world go by. The tourists came from everywhere, USA, Japan, China, Eastern Europe, France and much more. I was amazed to see so many people and could barely believe they had come to this place which amounted to nothing more than one street and a harbour.

It was a pleasant walk back to our hotel and we settled down for a peaceful night before our exploration tomorrow.

At 4am I heard an enormous crashing outside followed by the moving of bins and the clanking of bottles. Our room was directly over the service entrance and I got no more sleep that night. I was wrecked. Mike bit the bullet at 6.30am and went for a swim and I got up half an hour later and got ready for the day. When Mike returned I confronted him "That's it." I declared "I'm going to complain and want to be switched to a better room. I'm not putting up with this for the night!" "Oh, no" he replied "Just don't do it when I am around."  After a very average breakfast I explained my predicament to the duty manager and we were relocated to a suite in the other side of the hotel. We packed up our bags and left them in the room for relocation and headed off to the battle of Augrim.

The morning was a bit drizzly so as Mike had put the roof up the night before we decided to leave it up and set off. The battlefield was about 40 minutes away and by the time we arrived the drizzle had stopped and we set off  to walk the battlefield. I know nothing about it so ..... the history lesson doth now commence.

James II was on the throne of England and was a Catholic king with the intention of converting the country back to Catholicism. The country was not happy about this and there was an uprising and William of Orange was invited to rule with his wife Mary who was a daughter of Charles I. He landed on the South Coast unopposed and James II met him in the field but dithered and then ran off to France and left the country to William in a bloodless coup. He returned to Ireland and face William in the battle of the Boyne and was soundly defeated and left Ireland for France never to return and blamed the Irish nobles for the defeat. However, these nobles continued to fight William in his name and the following year the Battle of Augrim took place as William tried to quell the Irish revolution once and for all. The armies met at the town of Augrim where the Jacobites (those fighting for James) set up their army in an excellent defensive position - both army's were determined to bring each other to the field and settle the matter once and for all. 

The Williamites (as they are called during this campaign as the army was made up of mainly Dutch, Scots and French soldiers with only a quarter made up of Englishmen) made three attempts to attack the Jacobite positions and in each case were repulsed. Finally the Williamites sent their cavalry in along a defended road which was felt to be too strongly held to be tried earlier and the cavalry made it to the edge of the Jacobite left and formed them selves up to attack the Jacobite flank. The Commander in Chief of the Jacobite army nicknamed 'Ruth' had a large cavalry contingent formed nearby and headed off to give them the order to charge the Williamites. There is no doubt that if they had attacked, they would have swept the Wiliiamite cavalry from the field and the battle would have been won by the Jacobites .... but .... as he headed off alone to give the order a Williamite cannonball decapitated him and the order was never given. The cavalry swept along the ridge and swept the Jacobite army from the field. The slaughter was bloody and more men were killed at the Battle of Augrim in one day than those killed at Gettysburg over three days. Grim indeed. That was basically the end of the Irish rebellion during this period and William continued to do battle in Europe.

The walk around the battlefield was really interesting, about 6/7 miles in total and though overcast the weather was mild and did not rain ... perfect.

We had lunch in Athlone and then headed back to Galway to find our suite awaiting us and our luggage just requiring unpacking.

Heading off to Galway now for dinner and the Dublin tomorrow. It is nice having a short break and I am enjoying the Irish continental vibe but don't think I'd like to stay longer than a few days ... to busy and party like for me. I suspect that there will be more of a party vibe in Dublin tomorrow but I am hoping to see some of the city before the party animals come out to play.